Not only is it known as the sunniest place in Vietnam, Mui Ne also has perfect conditions for watersports due to its consistent cross-onshore winds and having the lowest rainfall in the country. As a result, it has become a mecca for wholesale pearl jewelry kite-surfers and has attracted a cool, young crowd — and with them, a laid-back, surfy vibe.

Shoulder dislocation (an unfortunate side-effect of kite-surfing, so I’m told) didn’t really appeal, so I was happy to duck out and sit in Jibe’s, a cool little beach bar, sipping a mango daiquiri and watching the primary colours of the sails streak across the waves. As night fell, the kites were replaced by a string of fishing boats, their lights sparkling along the horizon as they trawled for squid and shrimp. By morning, those too were gone, to loose freshwater pearl be replaced by the occasional coracle being punted along by a wizened old fisherman.

Mui Ne offers a dozen or so luxurious bungalow-style resorts, as well as some cheaper guesthouses, excellent restaurants and some supercool bars — the most stylish I found being Sangkara, a newly opened beach club that seems to have borrowed heavily from the chillout rooms of Ibiza. Jibe’s is also a hot ticket for sundowners in the evenings, and often organises beach parties on Saturday nights. The Sailing Club, a four-star resort with a surfside restaurant, does a mean coconut and rum, as well as an ­interesting western-style menu; who would have thought that passion fruit and beef would go together?

Of course, you can’t stick to western menus when you’ve gone all the way to Vietnam. Local favourite is a fantastic seafood restaurant a little way out of cultured pearl jewelry town — racily named Cay Bang. With seating for hundreds, it heaves at the weekend, particularly on Sundays Freshly caught fish, lobster, crab, whatever, is kept (alive) in pools. You choose your supper from what can only be ­described as an aquarium, and it goes from pool to pan to plate in about 10 ­minutes flat. Three of us feasted on barbecued squid, stir-fried morning glory, noodles, crayfish and crab for less than £15, beer included.